Chasing dragons: Bhutan blog

"The world has few secrets left, Bhutan is one of them. This is why I went there. Isolated from the outside for three centuries, this forbidden Kingdom in the Himalayas provides the setting for a bewitching adventure amongst widely varying peoples and terrain".

-Kartie Hickman, from her book Dreams of the Peaceful Dragon: A Journey into Bhutan.

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The Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan has always been on the top of my bucket list, but honestly I didn’t think I would actually make it here. Asides from it being such a remote destination, it's also quite expensive due to the mandatory daily tourist fees from the government ($100/day). Thus, I labeled it a fool’s dream. But here I am, over 100 countries later, solo, and apparently not a fool, wondering how this could possibly be real life. I stare out my window on the decent to Paro, and it feels like I’m entering another world. Before even stepping foot in Bhutan I already knew that I would love it. 

Bhutan is one of the most remote and carefully protected countries in the world. Its been known as a forbidden kingdom, deliberately isolated from the world for over three centuries (from the 1600s until the 1970’s). There are limited international flights from India, Asia and the Middle East, and entry is possible only through an organized tour or approved travel operator. Although Bhutan has opened their doors to tourism, it is mandatory for all tourists to have a guide with them outside of the major cities of Paro and Thimphu.

I flew into Paro International Airport (via SIngapore), the country’s only international airport. Make sure to get a window seat, the flight itself is spectacular, weaving through Himalayan peaks like Everest and Kanchenjunga. Paro airport is nestled deep in a narrow Himalayan valley at an altitude of 7,300 feet (2,225 meters), and is surrounded by towering mountains that soar up to 18,000 feet (5,500 meters) — making it one of the most challenging and spectacular landings on Earth. What makes it even more impressive is there is no radar-guided landing system, so pilots rely on their visual navigation. Because of the complex terrain, only a handful of specially certified pilots ( about 50 worldwide) are licensed to land there.

Upon landing, I was met by warm smiles and open arms. My hosts, Sam & Tashi were so welcoming that I was even invited to their home to meet their family, share stories, feast on an amazing home cooked meal and to just enjoy the local hospitality. I still keep in touch with them to this day, and we have even crossed paths in Europe. My guide, Tshewang was kind and patient as my curiosity got the best of me, and I bombarded him with never ending questions about this fascinating country. 

My questions felt like word vomit, that I couldn’t control:

What is Gross National Happiness (GNH)? How can I apply it to my life?

Are the citizens really happy? 

All the locals I came across were so nice. Is this a product of GNH?

Is Buddhism law? 

Buddhism is complex. Tell me more.

Why is it called the Land of the Thunder Dragons? Tell me more. 

Are you really a carbon negative country? How?

Is that why I can breathe easier here?

Is this really the Last Shangri-La? Prove it. 

Can I also wear a traditional dress? I want one.

How can people drive with no traffic lights in the capital?

Are there even crimes here?

Tell me about the economy? How do you make your money?

Does the Yeti really exist? Have you seen him?

Is there magic here? I think there is...

TELL. ME. MORE.

Of course I did have more questions, but first let’s talk about Gross National Happiness (GNH). GNH is a development philosophy that originated in Bhutan. Unlike the rest of the world who focuses on Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and economics, GNH emphasizes policies and practices based on what makes their citizens happy. Bhutan prioritizes the well-being of its people, which I personally feel like the rest of the world should follow suit. They remain the only country in the world to officially implement GNH. GNH is based on four pillars: sustainable and equitable socio-economic development, conservation of the environment, preservation and promotion of culture, and good governance. The concept reflects Bhutan's commitment to sustainability, and balances material prosperity with spiritual and cultural values.

Let's discuss sustainability. Bhutan has a “high value, low volume” model of tourism and with their high Sustainable Development Fee (SDF) for tourists I expected to see paradise. Which they absolutely delivered, rightfully earning them the title of the Last Shangri-La. I immediately understood their need to put nature first, the fresh moutain air even allowed me to breathe and sleep better. By law, 70% of the country must be nature, making them the first carbon negative country. The downside is there is no room for expansion, so many young people have left for work outside the country. 

If you want to understand the people of Bhutan, you have to at least grasp the foundation of Buddhism. Buddhism is incredibly complex, it isn’t just a religion- it’s a way of life that shapes the country's culture and values. At its core, Buddhist philosophy values inner well-being over material wealth, encourages kindness, compassion, and the reduction of suffering. The spiritual outlook is reflected in everyday life, where much is consided sacred and traditions are respected, including photography restrictions in temples. I understood their no photos policy but also would have loved to share how incredibly beautiful the temples were inside , honestly some of the nicest and most unique I've seen anywhere. Spirituality is not seperate from daily living here- it defines it, and its principles are closely woven into both social norms and national identity. The Bhutanese understood the need to preserve their culture, and you would immediately notice that the majority of the population still wears their traditional dress daily. I also got my own Kira to blend in more with the locals.

Now, let’s talk about magic. I know it may sound crazy but I’m convinced if it exists in the world it lives in Bhutan. For example, the Yeti exists (my guide confirmed this, or at least said he believes it does), as well as a little mystical monkey deep in the same Himalayan snowy mountain, but no one has ever seen them, just their footsteps and signs that they have been there. I’m assuming this sacred monkey of their folklore is the endangered golden langur (but don’t quote me on that, I was never given an actual name). They’re both regarded as deities. Fun fact, Bhutan has the highest unclimbed peak in the world, it’s considered sacred so no mountaineering is allowed. I’m also assuming that’s where the Yeti and the magic monkeys live. Locals however fear the yeti, my guide lived in a village by that mountain and as a teenager when he saw the footprints, they were taught to run away from it. The mystical monkeys leave a series of footprints, but the Yeti leaves only a single giant footprint. Locals also know when those mystical monkeys are around because they eat bamboo but are covered in fog and a garlic smell becomes present. The Yeti also eat bamboo but leave the middle part of the shoot for some unknown reason. 

Other fascinating myths I heard on my trip was about dragons. My guide told me they also believed in dragons when he was younger, however they no longer exist. The Bhutanese call their homeland “Druk Yul” which translates to the "Land of the Thunder dragon" because of the mighty storms that occur in the Himalayas sound like a dragon’s roar. In Bhutanese tradition, the dragon is not just a mythical creature, it represents the nation’s identity, power, and divine protection.

Being in Bhutan makes me feel like I was a part of a club that only a few were selected to experience this secret corner hidden from the rest of the world.  And as I’m sitting on my porch of my glamping tent with a view of Tiger’s Nest, I still feel like this can't be real life. If my younger self could see me now! 

🌿Is it Worth the Journey? ABSOLUTELY.

Bhutan’s remoteness is exactly what makes it so special. Its isolation preserved its culture, spirituality, and pristine environment for centuries, and even today, the journey feels like stepping into a world untouched by time. So while it’s not a place you can just stumble upon, it’s one that rewards every mile you travel to reach it.

Interested in Bhutan? You’re in luck, LBE Travel & Tours is making this remote destination accessible! Contact us directly for private and group tours to the Land of the Thunder Dragon.